ICE TRAVEL




Iceland is a spectacularly beautiful and modern country. There are, however, things to consider when planning a trip there. Customs and laws differ, as do economics and meteorology. Here are a few other things, out of my own personal experience, to think about (please check back for revisions from time to time); these comments are principally directed to North Americans and especially citizens of the United States and should not be considered professional advice. DIPLOMATIC REQUIREMENTS: Citizens of the United States currently need a passport to enter Iceland; no visa is required for short stays. If you do not have a passport, give yourself plenty of time to apply and receive the document - perhaps at least two months. Make copies of your passport - keep a copy with you and keep a copy at home to aid in replacement should the passport get lost. For customs restrictions and allowances, visa and entry regulations, and health information, go here. GATEWAYS: Currently, Icelandair is the only regularly-scheduled commercial carrier serving Iceland from North America, with gateways at New York (JFK), Baltimore-Washington (BWI), Minneapolis-St. Paul, Boston, Orlando, and Halifax. Having used New York and Baltimore-Washington, I prefer Baltimore. TIME: Iceland maintains Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) - now sometimes called Universal Standard Coordinated Time (UTC) - throughout the year. When the United States is on standard time, Iceland will be five hours ahead of the Eastern Standard Time zone in the United States; in other words, when it is 4:00 PM, Eastern Standard Time, in the United States, it will be 9:00 PM in Iceland (on their twenty-four hour clock, this may often read as 21:00). When the United States is on daylight savings time (early April to late October), Iceland will be four hours ahead of the Eastern Daylight Time zone of the United States; you will have to calculate the time difference for the other American and Canadian time zones. Do not forget that if the American time is PM and the Icelandic time is AM, then Iceland is also a day ahead and the United States and Canada are a day behind on the calendar, i.e., 9:30 PM, EST, Thursday, in the United States is 2:30 AM, Friday, in Iceland. Click here to see the current time in Reykjavík and throughout Iceland. COSTS: One thing nearly everyone agrees on about Iceland is that its economy is an expensive one. Given its geography - the insularity; physical environment, including growing season and landuse; small market size and other considerations that require much importation of goods, especially food - this is not surprising. Expect to pay $5 - $8 for a bottle of beer or $50 for a small cheese Pizza Hut pizza with a couple of drinks. Of course, there are ways of economizing: buy things at the local grocery store (the Hagkaup stores in Kringlan Mall or Smáralind malls are as nice and modern as any grocery you will find at home), purchase bus passes, or take advantage of all-you-can eat breakfast buffets. A great bargain that you can get is the Reykjavík Card, which is available at City Hall and other offices. Around Iceland, you can purchase a Full Circle bus passport. Best of all, however, is simply to observe the Boy Scout's motto. I mentioned it somewhere here, but it will not hurt to say again: whatever price you see marked on an item, it already includes the tax. Likewise, there is no tipping in Iceland. Your bill is the bottom line. LANGUAGE: It will be a rare event when you find an Icelander who does not speak English and virtually all tours are conducted in English as well. Fear not. A simple "Pardon me" will stamp your language. Oh, while you're at it, take time to learn "thank you," "goodbye," and perhaps a few other words in Icelandic; it will do wonders. CURRENCY: The Icelandic currency is the króna (pl. krónur), or "crown," and normally abbreviated Kr within Iceland and either ISk or IKr in international circles. The Króna is based on a decimal system and is divided into 100 aurar; however, the decimal units are rarely used. The denominations of Krónur currently include coins through Kr 100 and paper beginning with Kr 500. In early 2005, US$1 = approximately Kr 60; thus, an item in Iceland costing Kr 1298 is approximately $21.63. For the sake of simplicity, simply move the decimal point in the Icelandic amount two places to the left, multiple by two, and you will have a good ballpark conversion, e.g., ISk 1298 = USD/$ 24.00 (off a little). Further, if the cost of something is very near the century mark, you may find that clerks will simply round off the price to the nearest hundred. The exact rate of exchange may be found at the Búnađarbankinn bank site. COMMON NECESSITIES: Most common necessities, e.g., toothpaste and toothbrushes, soap, contact lens solution, cough drops, and the like will be available in Reykjavik and suburbs, Akureyri, and in the other larger places. They may be difficult to come by and will be very expensive, if available at all, in the smaller locales. FILM: Film is available, but expensive. Take as much as you think you will need. Ask your film dealer about the safety of your film in airport security systems. Lead pouches are available and inexpensive, if you have doubts. Since there are many cloudy days, fast film may be your best choice; see what a professional film store would suggest in the neighborhood of at least ASA 200, or faster. Increasingly common these days are digital cameras, which might be an alternative to consider taking along. In this case, make certain you have an ample supply of disks, video cards, batteries, or whatever other hardware you need with such instruments. You can usually visit any camera shop in Reykjavik and have your camera card transferred to CD's, purchase new cards, or obtain information; this probably will be difficult outside the capital area. HEALTH, MEDICINES, AND DRUGS: For prescription medicines and drugs, carry a copy of the prescription with you, just in case (for both medical and diplomatic reasons), and make certain that you have both the generic and brand names of the prescription. It is also a good idea to carry with you a list of health problems, allergies, and the like, and the name and phone number of your personal physician at home. Do you have a spare pair of eyeglasses or contacts? Iceland is a modern country and physicians, hospitals, and emergency rooms are widely available (though, of course, the best facilities will be in Reykjavík). Iceland is a safe country, health-wise, and requires no special preparations or inoculations or general dietary concerns while there: you can drink the water! Just to be on the safe side, go to any search engine and enter "Iceland health" and see if there are any last minute suggestions. HEALTH INSURANCE: Contact your health insurance carrier to determine the validity of your coverage in Iceland. It may be possible to add a contract. IN AN EMERGENCY: Make provisions for being located if there is some kind of emergency at home. Traditionally, American Express offices have been good sources of mail from home, but today's technology makes them close to obsolete. If you are using a cellular (mobile) phone, make certain your number is working and that it is posted at home. Also leave a forwarding address at each stop along the way so that there is a trail that can be followed for you. For an immediate emergency, medical or otherwise, anywhere in Iceland, phone 112. Lastly, the Consular Section of the American Embassy does provide emergency services for Americans. You can register with them (and it is especially prudent if you will be in the country at least a month) and make certain you know their locational information, including phone numbers of 342-894-2731 or 342-562-9100, ext. 248; email address of consularreyk@state.gov; and street address of Laufasvegur 21, 101 Reykjavík. Make certain you read their Iceland - Consular Information Sheet. TRIP INSURANCE: Travel insurance is handy. It protects you from loss if you are unable to begin the trip because of health reasons. The exact bases of cancellation should be discussed with a travel agent. As an example only - and NOT a recommendation - see: Commercial Union Insurance Company's offerings. Insurance for trip delays, lost luggage, and similar encounters may also be purchased. SUNGLASSES: Though the weather is rarely sunny, sun glasses come in handy in the often windy weather simply as eye protection. CREDIT CARDS: One of the things you will quickly recognize is that Icelanders use their credit cards for everything - even to pay for a candy bar and Coke. There is no minimum amount to pay. I would not believe this to be a good practice; however, my personal experience has shown it not to be a bad idea, after all. As an example, I left a backpack with a good camera, jacket, and incidental things in a taxi; had I paid for the fare with a credit card - yes, they do that - the taxi number would have been on my receipt and I likely could have gotten the backpack returned immediately (it's gone, by the way). AND MORE CREDIT CARDS: Credit cards, especially Visa and Mastercard (Eurocard), are widely accepted. American Express is less important because it is generally accepted only in larger establishments and hotels but does have value because of its quick replacement in event of loss. I do not think that Discover cards are accepted anywhere (but could well be wrong). One problem that Lonely Planet has reported is that ATM machines in Iceland accept only cards that are tied to checking accounts. For purchases, some persons suggest that you always have the local currency written on your receipt so the amount will automatically be converted to American dollars by your bank. Always examine your receipt immediately. Before leaving for your trip, check the credit line with your credit card company and consider raising your available amount. You may also advise them of the trip so that "different" charges will not raise eyebrows. Also make certain that you know your PIN in the event you wish to use your card for obtaining cash. For more information, click here. Do you know your PIN code in numeric as well as alphabetic form? Some ATM keypads in Iceland may come only in numeric form (no letters on them). So what is the number equivalent of my PIN, which is (shhhhh, please do not share this with anyone) KEYPAD? RAIN GEAR: The Icelandic Low, a pressure system of rising and unstable air, is more or less permanently centered on Iceland and produces copious amounts of rain to go along with the cool temperatures found at this latitude. Wet weather clothing and protection will be necessary, including a raincoat or some kind of poncho (perhaps a better choice), an umbrella (although the wind may make this a dubious idea), and appropriate footwear. Carrying a change of clothing with you on any day trips - or anytime, for that matter - is not a bad idea. WEATHER WEAR: Iceland's weather and climate are controlled by several important features: latitude, the maritime influences of the Atlantic Ocean and the North Atlantic Drift current, and - in the interior - elevation. Geography recognizes the lowland settled areas as being the Marine West Coast type of climate characterized by mild winters and cool summers, with precipitation present throughout the year. There are fewer than four summer months of 50 degree (F) average temperature and precipitation (either rainfall or snow) will average around 30-40 inches per year. Such a description would make Iceland a slightly cooler version of the British Isles or the American Pacific coast of Oregon or Washington. Assuming you are going during the summer, prepare for the worst in weather and take along what you would wear in raw fall weather here. In summer, high temperatures are unlikely to exceed the low 60's and likely will be in the 50's most of the time (by the way, familiarize yourself with the Centigrade or Celsius system of temperature before you go), with wind and rain more often than not. Short sleeve and tee shirts are not a good choice, therefore. Some kind of ear covering might come in handy. Tours almost always involve walking, so include a pair of comfortable walking shoes that will stand up to the rugged Icelandic terrain. Also keep one complete set of clothing with you in carry-on luggage. SWIM WEAR: Pack a swimming suit. Every community has two things: a church (Lutheran, the state religion; most other religions will have a place of worship somewhere in the larger settlements) and a swimming pool. One thing you might look into is the protocol (near the bottom) for changing into swimwear at public venues; it is a little different. SLEEP WEAR: Nah, I don't mean pyjamas! What I am thinking about is the lack of darkness in Iceland's summer (roughly, June through August): the sun actually does set, but it is so minimally below the horizon that there is perpetual daylight in the summer, for all practical purposes. Will that cause you any sleep problems? Not all hotels, guest houses, or tents have opaque window coverings. The point here is that you might consider taking along a sleep mask of some kind. SOCIAL WEAR: Two considerations: 1) Jeans and sneakers (tennis shoes) will not cut it in certain restaurant and other social situations, so take along at least some casual wear for such occasions; in fact, I would recommend not taking jeans at all, period, but rather some casual wear like Dockers or L. L. Bean types; and 2) if you have an opportunity to visit a private home, take it by all means but remember: shoes off as soon as you enter the home. SKEETER BEATERS: If you travel to the Mývatn area just east of Akureyri in the North in the summer to see the pseudo craters, some kind of whole face and head protection from the literally hundreds of zillions of midges, e.g., here and here, is essential. In fact, TravelSmith markets a covering named Skeeter Beater, though you could fashion one out of mosquito netting yourself. SAFETY: The Vatican probably isn't any safer than this place is, but still be prudent, nevertheless. While anything can happen anytime, the most publicized danger is from pickpocketing teenagers downtown in Reykjavik's City Center at late night on weekends. Have a look at the latest U.S. Department of State Travel Warnings and Consular Information on Iceland (check that site for a wealth of general information). In another area of safety, you will find that Iceland grants you wide latitude in protecting yourself. There are few barriers or guards - human or otherwise - at falls, hot springs, rugged terrain, or other areas where the threat of danger is very real. Accept your responsibility. ENVIRONMENT: Iceland's environment is beautiful, but also very fragile. The cold climate requires an inordinate amount of time to recover from change and items that are biodegradeable at home might are grudgingly so there. Please don't pollute; please don't despoil: keep Iceland beautiful. SCHEDULE PROBLEMS: Experienced travelers expect the unexpected. Bad weather is frequently the culprit in Iceland. Flights to places like the Westmann Islands (said to be the windiest place on earth) may not run for days; and if you get there by plane, you may not get out. Consequently, do not make concrete plans when time is limited, e.g., the day or two before you expect to leave the country. Be flexible and have a sense of humor and resignation. OTHER MONEY MATTERS: It probably is best not to use credit cards for cash advances because of the high transaction fees. However, debit cards work very well. It is always safe to have some money in travel checks in case a card gets demagnetized or gobbled up in a machine. For your answers to a variety of money and other travel matters, I suggest you have a look at Rick Steves' website (it does not include Iceland, but does include many helpful tips). NOTATION: There are two significant variations in the way Icelanders post certain information that will be read by Americans. Be aware of these practices and you should not encounter any difficulty. One common practice in Iceland (and throughout the world) is to use commas at places where American notation systems would normally use a period, i.e., decimal point, e.g., 102,34. That should be read as 102.34 by an American. You will notice such a practice on exchange rate boards, price lists, and other postings. Calendar dates also assume a different form. Iceland posts dates in either the ascending DD/MM/YYYY or descending YYYY/MM/DD format so that you might see something like 29/08/2002 rather that the standard American practice of 8/29/2002. In either case, the month will be the middle figure in the series. Further, the month figure may be posted as a Roman numeral, e.g., 29/VIII/2002. SALES TAX: Sales in Iceland include a tax called the VAT (Value Added Tax), which is 24.6 percent. However, on a single purchase of at least ISK 4000/=, tax in the amount of 15 percent of the purchase can be recovered when you leave the country. Check with your hotel desk clerk upon arriving about this tax and the minimum amount that generates a refund and shop at places that display the Global Refund sign. Keep your receipts and keep them together. One good thing is that the tax is already included in the amount you see on the price tag. PHONE CALLS: International phone calls made from your hotel room and charged to your account frequently incur large surcharges. The best way to avoid this is to use a calling card. Call AT&T or another carrier (MCI and Sprint may be available now) to obtain such a card if you don't have one - and even more importantly, ask your company for instructions a nd learn how to use it before you depart. You can also purchase a prepaid phone card at various post offices and phone companies in Iceland; the cost of these cards, which are good for both international and domestic calls, begins at ISK 500. Many prepaid phone cards purchaseable in the United States now also permit you to call from abroad; check for details on the card before you purchase one. As one example, you might wish to check out the website for Qwest. Lastly, you should know that public telephones in Iceland are either coin operated (as we are familiar with) or card (símakort) operated; the cards can be purchased at post offices. At least some card-operated phones will accept MasterCard and Visa for both local as well as international calls (which I have used but could never find on my bill, so I do not know the cost!). Be careful that the card inserts easily into the phone; if it does not, you are inserting it incorrectly and will have difficulty getting it out - ask someone first (said from experience). Cellular phones, known as mobile phones in Iceland and throughout Europe, operate principally on the GSM (if you see these letters on a business card or elsewhere, they mean "cellular phone") network system and less so on the NMT-450 network system. Previously, your American cell phone could not be used while in Iceland; while this is probably yet true in many - indeed, most cases - the situation is changing rapidly and you would be advised to do some homework to see if your cellular phone is compatible with the Icelandic systems. One thing you can do is to rent a cellular phone from any of several companies, including Landssíminn-Iceland Telecom or Tal-Talk. Iceland is the most connected country in the world via cellular telephones and computers in the world. Nextel, an American cellular company, also now rents phones for their worldwide network, with coverage throughout Iceland's populated areas. You should also check to see what kinds of services and phones AT&T offers for Iceland - they probably offer the best hope of using your current cell phone while there, especially with their WorldConnect service. One other thing that I have just recently read about that you might consider looking into further is Cellhire, as well as Globafone and WorldCell (and I know nothing about any of them). One last word of advice regarding mobile phones: effective November, 2001, it was reported that is it illegal for drivers to use mobile phones on the road unless the phone is equipped with a hands-free device. For another study on road accidents, see here. STAYING CONNECTED/EMAIL: Can't leave home without the Internet? Not a problem - Iceland is the most connected country in the world and if you want to stay connected while in Iceland, you will have no trouble finding computer access. In fact, the larger hotels now have separate computer rooms for the use of their guests as well as connections within guest rooms (but have the right connectors). For email, make sure you have an account that is web-acccessible, however, rather that one that requires a telnet or a dial-in function. Yahoo!, Hotmail, Netscape - all provide the kind of account (and free as well) that will make such access possible. Public Internet access, at anywhere between IKr 500 and 1000 per hour, is available at many places. Three such places are at Kringlan Shopping Mall, where S24 is a comfortable coffee-cum-Web cafe; the BSÍ bus terminal, where Apple products are available; and the Net Café in City Centre (downtown). Check out other sites in Iceland at Cybercafes.com. There is one word of warning: cybercafe machines use the Icelandic keyboard, which is different from the one you use at home, and you may find a bit of difficulty using it. For example, when sending email, the " @ " sign probably will require the use of three keys. There are two solutions to the problem: 1) ask where all the English characters are (before you even start to use the machine); or; 2) copy addresses from a webpage or your mail program and paste them where you will always have access to them. Cybercafes are also valuable for one other thing. They will frequently be able to copy, for a nominal fee, the contents of your digital camera's storage device to a web site, a zip drive, a CD, or floppy for you, thus freeing that device for more pictures. (Thanks for these two tips goes to Rick Steves.) You may also want to investigate the possibility of accessing your own AOL or Compuserve Connections in Iceland. While you are at it, also check to make sure that you have the correct Computer and Telephone Connections (including the RJ11 modem adaptor). Do all of these preparations before you leave, however. DOCUMENTATION: Before leaving, make several copies of your passport, keeping one with you and leaving another with a responsible party. Do the same thing with your credit cards, travel checks, emergency contacts, prescriptions, and similar information. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: At the airport, arrival and departure involve passport control/immigration and customs declarations. American citizens will use the "All Citizens" gate for passport control since the United States is not a party to the EU's Schengen Agreement. Assuming there are no legal violations of any kind involved, these procedures are simple and are quickly dismissed. Don't even think about proceeding through these areas in possession of drugs, however; the online Daily News from Iceland is replete with stories of the most ingenuous and devious miscreants falling victim to the seemingly inocuous security here. If you call Icelandair before 21:00 (9:00 PM) of the evening prior to departure to confirm your passage, there is a line at the far right end of the check-in counters at the airport where your departure will be expedited. After passing through government controls, either arriving or departing, you will find a bank for currency conversion. For approximately US$10, FlyBus (large and comfortable white buses with blue and white lettering) connects with most major hotels in Reykjavík for all arriving and departing flights; the service maintains desks at the major hotels and at the airport. DRIVING: Your American (Canadian conditions are unknown) driver's license is valid in Iceland as long as your stay is less than three months and automobile rental agencies are a dime a dozen. However, you might also consider obtaining an international permit at your local AAA club office before leaving. You will need two passport-type pictures. The fee for the permit is minimal. Traffic circulates to the right as in the United States. Four-wheel and high-profile vehicles are common, but are unnecessary in the summer unless you are planning on going off-road. Driving lights (headlights) must be on at all times. Seat belts are mandatory for driver and all passengers, in both front and rear seats. Alcohol levels are more rigorous than at home: the blood alcohol level for DUI is .05 (about half of most American standards); suspicion alone is legal reason for the police to stop you; and the police do not need your consent to draw blood for an alcohol test. Before leaving, make certain you consult your own automobile insurance agent regarding coverage; it is likely your American insurance will not be valid and that you will be advised to obtain the maximum coverage possible while in Iceland. (Should you by any chance be driving your own vehicle in Iceland, it is mandatory to have a "green card" or some kind of proof of third-party insurance and you must purchase this.) Please familiarize yourself with driving practices in Iceland, but you should encounter no driving problems. Be aware that the minimum age for driving a rented vehicle in Iceland is 21 for cars and 25 for jeeps. Be prudent and check the license and insurance requirements yourself before leaving: do not rely on this information alone. VISITING SCHOLARS: For American or other scholars from abroad who are doing research in Iceland for an extended period, one apartment is available from each of two institutions: The Árni Magnussón Institute and The Sigurđur Nordal Institute. Contact The Árni Magnussón Institute, Árnagarđur, Sudurgötu, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland (phone: 354-525-4010 or 354-525-4035). TAPE SYSTEMS: One of the nicest souvenirs of your trip to Iceland that you can purchase is a video tape. However, European and American tape systems are incompatible - Europe uses the PAL system and North America uses the NTSC system, and your tape will be worthless if you purchase the wrong one. Make certain that the tape you purchase is the NTSC system; if what you want is unavailable in that format, the clerk can probably obtain it for you inside of a day. ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS: There are two considerations for taking your own appliances such as razors and hair dryers to Iceland (though some hotels may provide these for your use). Iceland's electricity runs on 220 volts, 50 cycles, AC current (an exception: the NATO base at Keflavík uses standard American currrent). Check to see what the electrical requirments are for the appliances you take with you and do not use them if they read other than the values noted above or do not say universal current, i.e., will work on any system; otherwise, you will burn out your appliance. You can buy a voltage converter (transformer) unit for making American systems compatible with Icelandic electrical systems at most hardware, home, auto, travel (including AAA), and other outlets. You should buy the converter that handles the highest current rating, e.g., 1600 watts. In addition, the plug to the wall outlet in Iceland is the double round plug with prongs that measure 4 mm in diameter and are centered 2 cm (or about eight-tenths of an inch) apart (common to European countries except for the United Kingdom) and you will have to use an adaptor plug to make the connection: your American appliance first fits into the converter, which fits into that plug, which then fits into the electrical outlet in Iceland. For more information, see Voltage Valet or Magellan's Traveler's Guide to Iceland (those two sites disagree on the name of the plug - whether it is B or D - that is used in Iceland; I have used the Voltage Valet "B" type successfully). SIZES: If you intend to buy clothing as souvenirs or for yourself, your American size probably won't be found in Iceland (though most of the clerks are knowledgeable and helpful in this regard). Here is a guide to comparative sizes. INTERACTING: In some social or professional situation, sooner or later, you will interact with your Icelandic hosts. Be prepared. Know a little American folklore to share; have fun singing "Home, home on the range" or "Take me out to the ballgame," or some such thing. Take along some collectors' pins of your city or college or baseball cards to give or exchange or perhaps one of the new American quarters from your home state (suggestion: New York's is great if your state doesn't have one out yet). Offer that Cincinnati Reds cap or Notre Dame shirt off your back. Don't ask what it is - just eat it. You will be asked: "Well, what do you think of Iceland?" (Well?) Know something of your history and geography and be able to explain or to defend - your choice - whatever recent political activities your country has been in volved in recently. Be a proud, but not an ugly, American. OTHER COMMENTS: City.Net's Iceland Page. BIBLIOGRAPHY: Probably one of the best sources to begin your study of Iceland is with McBride, Francis R., comp., ICELAND, rev. ed. Santa Barbara, CA: Clio Press/ABC-CLIO, 1996. 345 pp., maps, index. The ISBN for this work is 1-85109-237-4. Frank McBride is a Reference Librarian at Alfred University, visits Iceland often, and is an authority on the Fiske Icelandic Collection at Cornell University in Ithaca, New York. This work is actually an annotated bibliography of everything Icelandic - geography, history, politics, people, demography, economics, geology - the whole nine yards! But what is best is the fact that there is a section devoted to travel guides and another section on electronic resources. You should also have a look at my bibliography of current resources.